How to Mount Snowboard Bindings in 7 Easy Steps

How to Mount Snowboard Bindings in 7 Easy Steps

Most people inquire about how to mount snowboard bindings after purchasing a second snowboard. They've had a few seasons under their belts, but their first snowboard wore out and needed to be replaced. So they're leveling up - board, bindings, and everything. If this describes you, you're not alone in wondering how to mount snowboard bindings. However, after reading this tutorial, you will be one fewer person asking that question.

Here’s how to mount snowboard bindings:

1. Use the proper tools.
2. Understand your binding interface and mounting pattern.
3. Select your binding style.
4. Distinguish between left and right bindings.
5. Choose the binding distance and angle.
6. Mount the front bindings
7. Mount the rear bindings

Mounting snowboard bindings may appear to be straightforward with so many bullet points, but it may be difficult, especially for the inexperienced. This article will teach you about the many types of bindings, the right binding angle, and all the other binding fundamentals so you can mount yours like a pro.

How To Mount Snowboard Bindings In 7 Easy Steps

In this part, we'll throw a lot of information and instructions at you so that even if this is your first time mounting snowboard bindings, you'll be able to figure out what goes where. Are you prepared to begin? Let's get started!

Step 1 – Use the Proper Tools

Although there are other tasks to complete before you begin mounting the bindings, it is advisable to gather your supplies now.

To mount snowboard bindings, you just need a wrench and a #3 Philips screwdriver. If you want to utilize a multitool for the ork, that is also an option.

As long as your multitool has wrenches and flathead screwdrivers built in, then it will work just fine.

Step 2 – Understand your binding interface and mounting pattern.

Snowboard mounting methods have a variety of hole designs or mounting patterns. To choose bindings that are suitable with your board, you must first determine the pattern it employs.

To make matters even more complicated, the binding interfaces differ as well; they will only be compatible with certain sorts of hole patterns.

We understand that this might be perplexing for someone who is new to snowboarding or mounting in general. So, first, let's talk about mounting patterns, and then we'll go over binding interfaces.

You'll Come Across the Following Hole Patterns:

• 2x4: This is one of the two most frequent mounting patterns. This mounting pattern refers to the spacing between holes in millimeters. On the snowboard, there are two rows of holes. The holes are about two centimeters apart, and the rows are four cm apart; you can see it well in this K2 First Lite. Each row might have six or eight holes. Unless you have a Burton snowboard, you're probably going to have a 2x4 mounting pattern.

• 4x4: If your snowboard does not have a 2x4 mounting pattern, it may have a 4x4 pattern instead. A 4x4 mounting design has fewer holes than a 2x4. There are two rows with six holes each. Each hole is four centimeters apart, and each row is also four centimeters apart. If you have a speciality or kid snowboard, you may notice the 4x4 mounting pattern, but it has been generally phased out in favor of the 2x4 design. Older boards may also feature a 4x4 design.

• 3D: Some Burton snowboards include a 3D mounting design, which is even more complicated. Instead of rows, the holes are placed in triangle-like patterns. There are eight holes in each arrangement. With this hole design, you may attach snowboard bindings with three screws. Only older Burton boards from before 2014 have the 3D design.

• The Channel: I guarantee this isn't a commercial for Burton, but because they're so popular, it's important highlighting the alternatives. They just so happen to have pioneered in this field. So, of course, the Channel Mounting Pattern, which will be included on Burton boards after 2014. The Channel has two slots rather than any holes. Both slots are oriented parallel to the board's edges. Each binding is attached with only two screws, and The Channel allows you to change the degree of setback, centering angle, and stance width.

Let's Talk Binding Interfaces: 

This will help you to discover a binding interface that is compatible with the mounting pattern. There are four interfaces to select from.

• 4×4 Baseplate: The initial binding interface is the 4x4 baseplate, which is the most often used. Your snowboard is compatible with a 4x4 baseplate if it features The Channel, 2x4, or 4x4 mounting patterns. The Ride A-4's baseplate, for example, is compatible with Channel, 2x4, and 4x4.

• EST baseplate: Another Burton-exclusive binding interface is the Extra Sensory Technology (EST) baseplate. This baseplate may only be used if your Burton board has The Channel mounting pattern.

Step 3 – Select your binding style: Entry Systems

The next step is to choose the sort of binding that will be attached to your snowboard.

Here's the lowdown on each style of snowboard binding.

• Step-on bindings: Step-on bindings, such as the K2 Clicker Bindings and the Burton Step On Bindings, are exclusively compatible with Burton Step On boots. If you already have such boots, then these bindings are a no-brainer. Simply slide your foot in and secure your heel to the binding. Then you're all set to go!

• Rear-entry bindings: Rear-entry bindings are distinguished from other varieties by the single strap on the toe and the tall, strengthened back of these bindings. That back, sometimes known as a highback, opens up so you can put your foot in. The highback is then locked and you're ready to go.

• Strap-in bindings: The strap-in binding is the most commonly encountered of the three types of bindings. Insert your foot, tighten the straps until your boot fits snugly in the binding, and you're ready to hit the slopes. The K2 Indy Snowboard Bindings are an excellent illustration of this look. Easy!

Step 4 – Distinguish between left and right bindings

You can readily distinguish which is your left boot and which is your right boot, but for novices, recognizing the difference between left and right snowboard bindings might be difficult.

You have two options for distinction. Allow the straps to be your guide at first, and then follow their lead. If it doesn't work, look at the binding's curvature.

The binding, like a shoe, should have a curve to indicate whether it is on the left or right foot.

Only one of your feet should be in front of the snowboard, and that foot is referred to as your lead foot.

You don't need your snowboard to figure out which foot is in front. Simply remain still on any flat surface, such as your living room floor or outside. Begin to tumble forward slowly, but don't let yourself fall to the ground.

Which foot did you use to save yourself from falling? That's your front foot. A right-foot stance is called goofy, whereas a left-foot stance is called conventional.

Step 5 – Choose the binding distance and angle.

Even if you know which binding is on the left and which is on the right, you can't begin mounting the bindings yet. Before you begin, you must decide how far apart the bindings will be and at what angle.

101 BINDING ANGLES

You may select from a variety of binding angles based on your degree of skill and preferred snowboarding style. Here's a breakdown of each.

• Beginner stance angle: If you're just starting off, the duck posture is the greatest option. Both feet should be oriented in the opposing direction. Your front binding may be at a 15-degree angle, while your rear binding might be anywhere between -6 and 0 degrees. The duck stance improves weight distribution, making you feel more secure on your snowboard.

• Freeride stance angle: There is a distinction to be made between freeriding and freestyling. The natural topography of the slopes is used for acrobatics and tricks instead of barriers in freeriding. This requires a forward-facing posture with your lead foot at a 21-degree angle and your other foot at a 6-degree angle. You might also try 18/6 or 18/3.

• All-mountain stance angle: All-mountain snowboarding takes use of more hilly terrain, including backcountry skiing. All-mountain snowboarding benefits from a slightly forward lean or even a significant duck stance. The lead foot should be at an 18-degree angle, while the opposite foot should be at a -6-degree angle. Other possibilities are 15/-6, 18/-3, and 15/-3.

• Freestyle stance angle: Do you like to freestyle? The mirrored duck stance is the most conducive with freestyling, with one foot at a 15-degree angle and the other foot at a -15-degree angle. You might also try 18/-12, 18/-9, 15/-9, and 15/-6.

The next step is to choose your stance width.

STANCE WIDTH

Examine your snowboard for indications for the center-mount screw holes. Your left and right feet can walk straight over the screw holes, as well as one foot to the left or right of the holes.

Don't forget to adjust your stance offset. When mounting your bindings, the closer you are to the center of the board, the easier it will be to turn and feel in control of your board.

Some riders, particularly the more experienced ones, prefer to employ setback, which involves putting the bindings closer to the tail of the board. This improves turning "aggression" and boosts buoyancy when surfing in powdered snow.

Step 6 – Mount The Front Bindings

You're finally ready to start mounting. Begin with the front bindings and work your way back. Whether you use Burton EST bindings or disc bindings, how you install the front bindings changes.

We'll go over the steps for each, beginning with Burton EST bindings.

ONLY FOR BURTON EST BINDINGS

1. Using your #3 Philips screwdriver, remove the Channel plug from the Channel binding closest to the board's front. It should be obvious.
2. Insert the provided Channel inserts into the Channel apertures. Then replace the plug.
3. Insert your lead foot binding into the Channel inserts with your lead foot binding in hand.
4. Pick up your screwdriver once again and tighten the screws on each insert. Keep the screws slack enough to allow your front binding to slip.
5. Set your stance, then angle the binding such that its default position is 15 degrees. This is when a stance indication window comes in handy.
6. Tighten the loose screws all the way when you're in the appropriate position.

ONLY FOR DISC BINDINGS

• Set the binding angle using your left or right binding and its matching disc as desired.
• Place the disc over the center screw holes after placing both bindings close to their final locations. The bindings should be positioned such that there is an identical amount of snowboard on both sides from your boot heel to your boot toe.
• Begin twisting one screw at a time with a #3 Philips screwdriver, keeping them loose.
• Once the binding is in the proper place, you may tighten all of the screws. Of course, don't overtighten the screws or you'll strip them.

Step 7 – Mount The Rear Bindings

Now that you know how to attach the front bindings, whether they are disc bindings or EST bindings, you can easily repeat the process for the rear bindings.

The rear binding should be set at a -6 degree angle, such that the binding is tilted rearward.

Even if it's difficult, you can mount snowboard bindings.

Mounting snowboard bindings is a difficult process, especially for novices. The more you do it, the simpler it will get, much like waxing a snowboard or anything else you do for the first time.

Fortunately, once you've got your bindings in place, they'll survive for three to four years (usually longer than most snowboards) before you have to replace and install them again.

When it comes to attaching your snowboard bindings, practice makes perfect. So get this first one started, and you'll soon be able to show all your friends how it's done.